DIY installation guide
Roller Door Installation
Installing a garage door or roller door looks daunting, but it is easily done by anyone reasonably handy. This guide walks through the whole job step by step, from the tools you need to tensioning the spring, so you can fit your own door and save the installation fee.
Wholesale Garage Doors have been selling garage doors across Australia for over 20 years. This guide was written by our in-house team, so you can safely install your new shed, garage or factory door. Our garage door prices are among the lowest in Australia, on top quality Australian-made brands.
Watch first
Garage door installation videos
If you would rather watch than read, start here. These cover a Taurean roller door, a B&D roller door, and fitting an opener once the door is up.
How to install a Taurean roller door
How to install a B&D roller door
How to install a roller door opener
Tools required for garage door installation
For a safe and efficient installation, fit the door with someone giving you a hand. It is a two person job. You will also need:
- A laser level
- A spirit level
- A socket set
- Two step ladders
- A marker pen or pencil
- A power drill and drill bits
- Screwdrivers and a pipe wrench
- A tape measure and Stanley knife
- A softwood chock about 400mm long
Installation safety checklist
Do not remove the strapping around your roller door. The door is under spring loaded tension and cutting the wrapping early can cause serious injury.
Before you start, check all of the following:
- Your work area is clear from obstruction.
- All supporting walls are structurally sound to avoid damage.
- The surface above the doorway is flush and free from any protrusions.
- You are wearing appropriate safety gear, meaning gloves, boots and safety goggles.
- You have adequate space above the doorway to house the rolled-up door and fittings.
Correct fasteners for your structure
- Steel purlins: 4 or more self drilling screws, included with the install box.
- Timber frame: 3 or more 8mm x 50mm coach screws, included with the install box.
- Brick or concrete: 3 or more M8 bolts or threaded rod from the outer surface of the wall, or 10mm M8 thread metal expansion fasteners from Loxin, Dynabolt or equivalent. Not included with the install box.
- Flat washers must be used under all nuts, bolts and screw heads.
Side room needed for the tracks
- 25mm either side for residential roller doors up to 3430mm wide.
- 50mm either side for residential roller doors over 3430mm wide.
- 50mm either side for Light Commercial or NovaTaur roller doors.
Manufacturer instructions
Downloadable installation guides
Every door ships with printed instructions. These are the same documents if you have misplaced yours, or want to read them before the door arrives. Always follow the guide for your specific door.
The Windstrong Region C supplement currently points at the Windlock document. If you need the Windstrong instructions, call us on 1300 456 356 and we will send them through.
Replacing a door
How to remove an old roller door
If you are replacing rather than fitting to a new opening, the old door comes out first. The spring is the dangerous part, so do this in the right order.
- Roll the door fully down so the curtain is extended and the spring is at its lowest tension.
- Tie ropes around each end of the door roll to stop it dropping once the brackets are loose.
- Release the spring tension. With a person on a ladder at each end, grip the axle firmly with a large pipe wrench, loosen the U bolt nuts at both ends, and let the axle rotate back slowly under control until the tension is off.
- Unbolt the tracks from both sides of the opening.
- Roll the curtain up by hand and strap it so it cannot unroll.
- With both people taking the weight, lift the rolled door off the brackets and lower it to the ground.
- Unbolt the brackets. Check the fixing points, because you may be able to reuse them if the new door is the same width.
Old doors are steel and can be taken to a scrap metal recycler. Many will accept them free or pay a small amount by weight.
The installation
Step-by-step roller door installation guide
Allow 90 to 120 minutes for a first DIY install, plus another 30 to 45 minutes if you are fitting an opener. Have both people on site for the whole job.
Step 1 Installing the door brackets
- Measure and mark the roller door width on each wall of the opening, adding extra width on each side for the inside line of the bracket. How much extra depends on the size of your door, so refer to your installation guide.
- Check there is adequate head and side room clearance. Hold the door bracket and mark two or three holes, the number varying by door. Level, drill, then bolt the bracket into place.
- Using the laser level, mark the height of the second bracket on the other wall and drill it into position.
- Check the axle length, then carefully lift the rolled-up door onto the brackets using ropes or another safe lifting method. Make sure it faces so the curtain rolls down the front.
- Push the axle into the slots and rotate the door forward.
- Loosely secure the door with the supplied U bolts and saddles.
- Centre the door within the opening. Rotate the curtain so the bottom section sits on the inside of the garage.
Step 2 Tensioning the door springs
- Attach the axle to the brackets. Use the washers and nuts to lock it into place.
- Rotate the door forward to apply tension to the spring. The number of turns depends on the door size, so refer to your installation manual.
- Have your assistant cut the strapping while you maintain spring tension.
- Draw the curtain down slowly and position the wooden chock to hold the door until you fit the tracks.
Step 3 Checking the roller door tracks
- Pull the door down and check it overlaps the doorway equally on both sides.
- Slide the first track over the edge of one side of the door. Loosely secure the track to the wall with fasteners.
- Repeat on the other side. Use the spirit level to make sure both tracks are perfectly vertical.
- Move the door up and down, checking for correct tension. Make sure the door is not binding in the tracks at any point, adjusting where necessary, then tighten both tracks securely.
- Use screws or other fasteners to attach the handle to the outside of the door.
- If supplied with your door, fit the weight bar to the bottom rail for added stability.
Panel lift doors
Installing a sectional garage door
A sectional or panel lift door is a different job to a roller door. Instead of one curtain on a sprung axle, you are building horizontal tracks, fitting panels one at a time, and setting a torsion spring above the opening.
The broad order is: fit the vertical tracks each side, lay the bottom panel and level it, add each panel with its hinges and rollers, join the horizontal tracks and hang them from the ceiling, then fit and wind the torsion spring last.
The torsion spring is the part to respect. It is wound under far more tension than a roller door spring and must be set with proper winding bars, never a screwdriver. If you are not confident, this is the step to hand to an installer.
Low headroom openings need the low headroom kit, which changes the track layout. Both guides are in the downloads above.
Fitting a garage door opener
An opener goes on after the door is installed and running smoothly by hand. If the door is stiff or out of balance, fix that first, because an opener will not correct a mechanical problem and will wear out trying.
The Auto Openers Door Pro suits roller doors and the Panel Ace suits sectional doors. Both are $349 on their own, or $299 bought with a door, and both carry a five year warranty that covers DIY installation.
Allow another 30 to 45 minutes on top of the door install.
After installation
Looking after your door
Modern garage doors need very little. Every six months, run through the following.
- Clean the curtain with a soft cloth or sponge and mild detergent in warm water.
- Rinse with clean water straight away to remove any trace of detergent.
- Inspect the brackets, springs, tracks, fasteners, cables and weather seal for wear.
- Lubricate the springs with grease or oil.
- Do not lubricate the locking mechanism, as this can make it malfunction.
- Do not oil the tracks. Clean them occasionally with spirit cleaner.
- Perform a balance test. Close the door, then lift it to waist height. It should stay put. If it drifts, the spring needs rebalancing.
Re-tensioning the spring
- As a safety precaution, tie ropes around each end of the door roll.
- With you and your assistant on a ladder at each end, grip the axle firmly with a large pipe wrench.
- Loosen the U bolt nuts at both ends while keeping a firm grip on the pipe wrench.
- Rotate the axle in the direction you need, to add tension or to loosen it.
- Re-tighten the U bolts and release the pipe wrench.
- Test the door. Repeat if it needs further adjustment.
Common questions
Garage door installation, answered
How much does garage door installation cost?
Labour to fit a supplied roller door usually runs $200 to $400. A sectional door takes longer so it sits a little higher. Cost varies with your location, the door size, whether an old door needs removing, and travel time. Regional rates are often lower than metro.
Can I install a garage door myself?
Yes. As long as you follow the manufacturer’s installation guide and take the recommended safety precautions, a roller door is a realistic DIY job for anyone reasonably handy. You do need a second person.
How long does it take to install a roller door?
A professional installer takes around 45 minutes. A first DIY installation typically takes 90 to 120 minutes depending on your skill level. Allow another 30 to 45 minutes if you are fitting an opener as well.
Do I need two people to install a roller door?
Yes. The rolled door is heavy and awkward, and one person needs to hold spring tension while the other cuts the strapping. Do not attempt it alone.
How do I remove an old roller door?
Roll the door down, tie off each end of the roll, release the spring tension with a pipe wrench before touching anything else, then unbolt the tracks and lift the rolled door off the brackets. Never cut or unbolt a wound axle.
What fasteners do I need?
Steel purlins take four or more self drilling screws. Timber frames take three or more 8mm x 50mm coach screws. Both are supplied in the install box. Brick or concrete needs M8 bolts or expansion fasteners, which are not supplied.
How much side room do I need?
Allow 25mm either side for residential roller doors up to 3430mm wide, and 50mm either side for anything wider, or for Light Commercial and NovaTaur doors.
Is a sectional door harder to install than a roller door?
Yes. A sectional door involves building tracks, fitting panels individually, and winding a torsion spring that holds far more tension than a roller door spring. Many people fit the door and have an installer set the spring.
Do you install the doors you sell?
We sell direct and ship Australia wide with delivery included. We do not install, but we have a network of installers across the country and can put you in touch with someone local. Most will take the old door away as part of the job.
Ready to order
Get a price for your door online
Now you know what the installation involves, put your opening size into the calculator and get the exact price for your door, delivered anywhere in Australia.

